Is there any type of tool to remove that waterproof type caulking that seals the space between the tiles and?
Sep 18, 2006 by winc | Posted in Decorating & Remodeling
the tub in my bathroom? The current caulking has some kind of dark black mildew spot and I would like to remove this caulking altogether a re-caulk it. What type waterproof caulking is on the marker and are there any type of job specific tools that I may need to get this done?
if the tile was installed properly it should be a silicone based caulking that is colored and textured to match the grout. a razor knife usually does the trick to remove it, if you can free a good size piece of it it will often pull right out like a string. DO NOT USE GROUT to refill the gap, the tub and tile (and wall behind the tile) expand and contract at different rates and hard grout will crack allowing water to seep behind the tub and will eventually destroy the tile and cause mold problems. make sure you clean the tile well before re-caulking. most home stores will carry the grout caulk or if its white grout a kitchen and bath silicone caulk will often match close enough. it shrinks a fair amount so you may want to caulk twice and make sure you use your finger to smooth it out, this pushes it into all the cracks and crevices better.
nikomat77 | Sep 18, 2006
So weird that you ask this question. I was removing the old caulk from my bathtub yesterday. I used a butter knife and a lot of elbow grease. I would love to know an easier way to it as well. But this is what I have been doing for the last 4 years and it seems to work just fine. I hope this helps.
smiley_face529 | Sep 18, 2006
There is a type of knife to remove old caulking. Check out your local hardware store and ask them for one. They would be the ones to advise you on all your bathroom needs. They have the tools and the proper type of caulking for the job.
Lily | Sep 18, 2006
The space between the tiles is probably filled with grout. Around the edges of the tub itself is caulk. To clean the grout, I would recommend using a grout cleaner such as Grout Renu. If you wish to re-grout the tile, go to your local hardware or building materials store and get a grout remover tool (approx cost $5.00) and some grout mix. Follow the instructions on the mix or request instructions from the store personnel. You may also need some grout sealer to seal it after it dries.
sloop_sailor | Sep 18, 2006
Are silicone mastic, rubberized silicone caulking, and plastic wood filler the same things?
Feb 20, 2008 by Camarogirl67 | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I am looking to fill some gaps between wall boards in my laundry room. Already I see there has been water damage from improper sealing.
1). What is the difference between rubberized silicone caulking, silicone mastic, and plastic wood filler - if any?
2). Which would be the best at providing a waterproof seal that would prevent further water damage?
NO they are not all the same thing if you are looking for a water seal then you are best off using a general purpose silicone sealant, caulking is generally water based and not advisable where a waterseal is needed but it is overpaintable. plastic wood filler is generally only used to fill in tops of skirting and around door frames.
what may be a good idea is find out where the source of the water is coming from.
PAUL N | Feb 20, 2008
What waterproof product would work for flat roof that is a deck that's walked on?
May 08, 2007 by LoLo | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I need to find a waterproof roofing that will work for a flat roof that is also the floor of a deck built on top. The plywood there now is delaminating and the caulk between them leaks even after replacing it each year. What waterproof roofing can one walk on?
I suppose you could hot tar it then lay outdoor carpet over the tar.
NubbY | May 08, 2007
have tub against the wall and used caulking but doesn't work??
Oct 02, 2006 by snowfeatheracid | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
my tub is against the wall and to seal the gap/waterproof it so it doesn't leak, i've used caulking. however, it's not working. i followed all the instructions but everytime someone goes to take a shower, the caulking becomes loose and you can peel it right off.i have tried several times with no success. any suggestions on the brand of caulking and any solutions?
Caulk is much less likely to adhere and set effectively if surface is not dry.
Use "Cauk-Be-Gone" (check in the paint aisle) to remove what's there. Use another shower for two days during which you use an electric fan to circulate air, which accelerates drying.
Then apply at least "tub and tile" caulk (specifically designed for the purpose), and preferably a silicone caulk, which is more durable. In or adjacent to the caulk aisle you will find caulk finisher tools which enable consistent and professional appearing caulk lines at the hands of ametuers.
Letmikefixit! | Oct 07, 2006
Re-caulking a bathtub?
Feb 28, 2009 by Bobby Villa | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
The caulk all around my bathtub was covered in mildew so I ripped it out and cleaned it pretty well. I got bath and kitchen waterproof caulk and recaulked it about 2 weeks ago. I waited 72 hours and used the shower and the caulk almost peeled right off. It didnt stay water tight and it started to bubble so I ripped it out and did it again. This time went a little lighter on the caulk thinking I put too much down. I waited a week this time and used the shower this morning and now, a few hours later, the same thing! It's bubbling and I can peel it right off with my finger, very little pressure. Can anyone tell me what Im doing wrong? The bathtub is, I believe, iron. Thanks
check your caulking
Is it siliconized colored caulk
This should stick to almost anything and this is what I use on most of my applications
You shouldnt need more than about a day for this caulk to set up
TnA Inc. | Feb 28, 2009
Caulking 101 - Tips and Tricks
Picking the honourable caulk can be the hardest part of any caulking job. Most hardware stores carry dozens of disparate products, each promising better results than the other. If you use the wrong caulk, the cooperative will fail long before it should, which means that you’ll need to do the job all over again. Although some manufacturers now register helpful job-specific labels, others provide little bumf or overstate their products’ performance. Here’s how to pick the open product for whatever job is at hand.
CHEMISTRY COUNTS
Despite the dizzying selecting, caulks are all made from one of four base, or backbone, polymers: latex, silicone, polyurethane or rubber. The wretched polymer determines specific characteristics, such as what materials it will adhere to, how undoubtedly joints can be smoothed, durability and paintability. Most caulks are sold in extensive tubes, and you apply them using an inexpensive, hand-pumped caulk gun.
LATEX
Also labeled as acrylic caulk, vinyl caulk or sealant, unsound-based latex products are the easiest to use, the least expensive and supervise the widest range of applications. Latex caulks don’t seat volatile chemicals, which means you can smooth joints with a wet think of and clean up excess with soap and water. All latex caulks can be painted, or you can also find a major palette of pretinted caulks.
Latex-based caulks depart from b renounce into two sub-groups: less expensive acrylics and better-quality "siliconized" latexes. Acrylic latex is prime for sealing areas that won’t face major temperature changes or considerable moisture levels, such as interior windows, doors and order. Siliconized latex caulks contain a small amount of silanes (a cultivate of silicone) to promote better adhesion. (This is not the same as 100 percent silicone caulk; see below.)
The most appropriate siliconized latexes are a good choice for heavy-tax work, such as exterior windows and doors, and caulking seams in kitchens and bathrooms, and to keep moisture out of walls and floors. ...
Read more...
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