how do you lay outdoor ceramic tiles, do you put them directly in the dirt?
Apr 16, 2006 by kessle62 | Posted in Garden & Landscape
Go to www.doityourself.com you should find the answer there. But definately don't waste your time laying tile in dirt.. it won't last.
jonser99 | Apr 16, 2006
You have to put a levelling agent underneat the tiles. (sand or decomposed granite)
Bronwyn | Apr 16, 2006
The only way I have seen tile installed outside is on top of existing concrete. If you can't afford to do that you shouldn't do tile unless the tile is big and heavy. If not, try flagstone instead, you can put those on a 1" bed of sand. You should have a bed of at least 4" of agrigate (crushed limestone or crushed sandstone) under the sand, and it must be compacted with a compactor. And under that should be landscape fabric.
K_BIZ | Apr 16, 2006
The only way I have seen tile installed outside is on top of existing concrete. If you can't afford to do that you shouldn't do tile unless the tile is big and heavy. If not, try flagstone instead, you can put those on a 1" bed of sand. You should have a bed of at least 4" of agrigate (crushed limestone or crushed sandstone) under the sand, and it must be compacted with a compactor. And under that should be landscape fabric.
Leo | Apr 16, 2006
What can be used to remove dried mortar and grout from newly installed outdoor ceramic tile?
Jul 12, 2006 by Wendell P | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
we installed outdoor ceramic tile over a cement slab. It seems we did not do proper clean up of mortar and it has now dried and left unsightly white stains on the ceramic tile. I have used grout haze removal and did not work. What can be used to remove the white stains?
It took a little while to remember but brick laying contractors use muriatic acid to clean dried mortar stains from brick. You probably should check with a place like Home Depot to be sure if this will work for your application. There is a risk of permanently staining the original color of the tile if not done correctly. Below is an article which explains how to use the muriatic acid properly. Remember that dry masonry will absorb cleaning materials. When using muriatic acid to clean always make sure the masonry is saturated with WATER during the entire cleaning process to prevent the absorption of dissolved particles which can stain the colored surfaces.
Brick Cleaning Systems
1. Bucket and Brush Cleaning
Bucket and Brush Cleaning is the most widely used method of cleaning newly constructed brick walls in both small and large jobs. A minimum amount of equipment is needed and workmen do not need to be highly skilled. Only the job foreman or supervisor need to be knowledgeable and experienced.
This method may be used for cleaning all colors and textures of brick. However, care must be used in selecting the proper cleaning solution for the job.
The safest way to determine the proper cleaning solution for a given type of brick is to ask the brick manufacturer for his recommendation.
Muriatic acid has been used for many years in clean-ing red brick walls. This material is readily available and is economical. When used in a 10% solution (1 part muriatic acid and 9 parts water) and ap-plied under proper conditions it will satisfactorily clean most red brick walls.
The problem with this cleaning material is that workers too often use solutions stronger than the recommended 10% maximum to make their job easier, and often fail to apply the solution under proper conditions as will be explained below. Furthermore, workmen often use muriatic acid on some types of brick that can be damaged with this acid. For these reasons many cleaning contractors refuse to use muriatic acid, and many architects/engineers refuse to allow muriatic acid on the job.
The relationship between architect and cleaning subcontractor is a major factor in determining whether or not muriatic acid will be permitted on certain jobs. Also, permission to use muriatic acid should be ob-tained from the brick manufacturer.
There are many new commercial cleaning compounds on the market today that will clean new masonry as well as muriatic acid and can be used with more safety. Many of these cleaners contain small amounts of hydrochloric acid as well as "wetting" and "buffering" agents to improve the solution's action and to minimize deterioration of mortar joints and damage to surrounding materials.
Listed below are some of the recommended commercial cleaning compounds:
Sure Klean 101, 600 and Vanatrol
Superior 800 series
Goldblatt Brick Bath
Diedrich 200, 202, 202 Vana-Stop
Formulation of most commercial cleaners is so complicated that the users should not necessarily try to understand terminology such as wetting agents, buf-fering agents, oxidizing, chelating, inhibitors, etc., but should rely on chemical manufacturers' recommendations as found on containers, and on recommendations of brick manufacturers.
The following procedure is recommended for cleaning by the Bucket and Brush Method:
1. Wait for mortar to harden. While industry stan-dards generally require masonry to be 7 days old before cleaning, it is possible to start cleaning operations 24 to 36 hours after completion of masonry work, depending on the type of brick and weather (drying) conditions.
2. Remove all large mortar particles with hand tools before applying water or cleaning solutions. Use wooden paddle, the rough edge of a brick, or metal scrape hoe. Chisels may be used, if necessary, to remove hardened mortar or concrete. This is a very important point in cleaning new masonry. Don't expect cleaning solutions alone to remove large particles of hardened mortar.
3. Mask and otherwise protect adjacent metal, glass, wood, etc. surfaces as recommended by product manufacturers.
4. Saturate the wall with clean water. The area to be cleaned must be saturated as well as all masonry areas below.
Hose should be trained upon wall until brick is saturated. If wall appears to be drying on surface, reapply water until worker is ready to apply cleaning solution. Failure to completely saturate the wall is a major cause of cleaning stains. Cleaning solutions containing dissolved mortar particles can be drawn into a dry masonry wall, causing future staining. Such staining from portland cement dissolved in cleaning materials is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to remove since it is insoluble in most masonry cleaning solutions.
Tulsa Time | Jul 12, 2006
Adhesive for outdoors ceramic Tiles?
Jun 23, 2008 by phil c | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
Any suggestion what is a good brand to use for outdoor ceramic tiles adhesive that i could get from home depot or lowes? Thanks.
Home Depot carries a brand of mortar called Flexbond. If has some give to aloow for expansion and contraction. I put a 3' x 5' ceramic inlay in my deck for my grills, and it worked very well. If you are not placing the tile on concrete, you will want to use cement backer board under it. On my deck, 1/2' pressure treated plywood, 1/4" cement board, and the ceramic tile came out pretty flush with the 5/4" cedar deck boards. You will also want to use an acrylic additive in the grout instead of water. This is also available at Home Depot or a good flooring store. Hope this helps. Good luck.
woodtick314 | Jun 23, 2008
has anyone tried tiling an outdoor wooden shed with stone effect ceramic tiles?
Aug 03, 2007 by mark s | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
we normally do this kind of thing by installing an angle iron(1"x1", anchor bolted to the wooden shed) at the base thereby taking the load of the tiles on the angle iron rather than just installing them on the wood. but please repeat the angle(1" x1") after say every seventh course.
lisa | Aug 04, 2007
Is there a product I can use to attach 4"x8" ceramic tiles to wooden landscaping planks used as outdoor flower
May 02, 2006 by hammy | Posted in Garden & Landscape
beds? I live in zone 6, so it must be both heat and very cold weather tolerant. Thank you.
You might be able to use plaster but you will need to score the wood first.
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